May 08, 2012
Eat It On The Street
They say it’s best eaten with your hands, while standing up; that’s why I like authentic Mexican street cuisine. Really, who needs utensils when you have two perfectly good hands? Mexican food has come full circle since its long ago trip across the border. It came to us as simple street fare—a soft corn tortilla filled with sliced meat, fresh cilantro, chopped onion, and an assortment of salsas. It spent the late 80’s and 90’s becoming a 99¢ flour tortilla filled with bag-o-beans and mystery meat. These days, thank God, Mexican food has returned to its delicious roots.
Street cuisine does not come with “a side of beans and rice.” Nor does it mean “a burrito as big as your head.” (Though, burritos as big as your head are delicious, especially after bar time). It is served from a stand (taquería) or a cart (puesto). The tacos are typically small, 3-4 inches in diameter, and more often than not, they’re corn. If you want more than a snack, double, or triple your order. The meats traditionally used in Mexico are not for the fussy eater. South of the border, they use the parts—head, ear, tongue, brains, and various other unmentionables. Naturally, substitutions abound up north. Here we find more “pedestrian” cuts of pork, chicken, beef and fish. And as for the toppings, the options are endless.
Street carts are popping up in neighborhoods all over the place, but if you can’t find one, there is no reason why you can’t have the real deal at home. No grill? No problem. I like to sear my meat on my cast iron Panini pan. It heats like a dream, and gives the meat that “fresh off the grill” look. I also use it to soften, and “mark” my tortillas. Put a few salsas on the side, green, red, mango, peach, whatever floats your boat, chop up anything from your crisper drawer, yes, even the radishes and the cucumber. It all works. Remember, small is big, and fresh is best.
